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Magic Penny

Over the last several days, we had the opportunity to visit a variety of schools in the province of Iloilo: elementary schools, high schools, and colleges. Most private schools had affluent students with plentiful technology and other resources, while most public schools functioned with large class sizes and severely limited resources. The desks housed in a museum of historical artifacts at one fancy private school would have been welcome additions in the classrooms at some of the public schools, where students sat at broken, rusted desks or had no desks at all.

Typical public school desks.

Typical public school desks

Private school students.

Private school students

No matter the setting, the best resources in every school we visited were the teachers. Universally upbeat, they teach with passion. Each teacher we observed focused not only on imparting knowledge but also on creating a warm, family-like classroom atmosphere. We witnessed no negative interactions between staff and students. Zero yelling, zero put-downs, lots of supportive comments and occasional gentle reminders, always delivered with a genuine smile.

A high school teacher supports a student as he presents.

A high school teacher supports a student as he presents.

An elementary school teacher models respectful listening.

An elementary school teacher models respectful listening.

Like their teachers, students displayed a consistent attitude of resilience. While I was teaching a journalism class, a storm hit, knocking out electrical power. Strong winds blew through the open windows and shattered glass objects in the classroom. The students calmly closed the windows and continued their lesson, completely unfazed. Their American teacher was a little fazed!

Journalism class in the dark

Journalism class in the dark

Intrepid journalism students (with their trepid teacher)

Fearless journalism students (with their slightly fearful teacher)

As we became more comfortable in different school settings, my teaching partner and I eschewed formal presentations for open dialogue with staff and students. Their insightful questions impressed us. Here’s a sample:

How do you think gay marriage will affect life in the United States?

I think it will improve life in the United States!

Is life in the United States as violent as portrayed in movies?

Nope! One student wanted to know how many shootings there had been at my school, and was surprised when I answered zero.

What will you miss most about the Philippines?

That’s an easy one: the people.

What do you really think about gay marriage?

I support it! At one Catholic school, I quoted Pope Francis, “Who am I to judge?” and students applauded.

When are you coming back? And will you bring those guapo stepsons of yours?

Soon, I hope, and yes, I hope so!

Music is a central part of life in the Philippines. At each school, students sang or danced for us. The fifth graders at Leganes Elementary performed “Magic Penny.” For me, the lyrics exemplify the attitude of the students and teachers of the Philippines:

Joy is something if you give it away,

You end up having more.

So let’s go dancing till the break of day,

And if there’s a piper, we can pay.

To the wonderful students and teachers of the Philippines: like a magic penny, I hope to return to you one day! Salamat and palangga ta ka! Thank you and I love you!

Thank you notes from Leganes National High School students. Gratitude is something if you give it away - it comes right back to you.

Thank you notes from Leganes National High School students. Gratitude is something if you give it away – you end up having more.

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Testing the comfort zone

Back when I was a timid middle school student, my PE teacher (the terrific Mr. Canzanese) encouraged me to take risks by saying, “You’re only really learning when you’re out of your comfort zone.” I’m learning a lot in the Philippines as I test my comfort zone daily.

Transportation

Our daily commute to school involves two Jeepneys and a tricikab, a motorized bike with an attached passenger compartment. There seems to be no limit to how many passengers can be squeezed into these contraptions. Roma and I have navigated the process of paying, transferring, and asking for a stop, all in the local Ilongo dialect.

Tricikab

Tricikab

Stuffing into a trikab. Not pictured: the two or three  riders often dangling from the top.

Stuffing into a tricikab. Not pictured: the two or three riders often dangling from the top.

Riding on a Jeepney. They are the size of large vans with two side-facing benches. The open sides have plastic covers that can be pulled down in the rain.

Riding on a Jeepney. They are the size of large vans with two side-facing benches. The open sides have plastic covers that can be pulled down in the rain.

Communication

Personal questions and comments are the norm. It’s not considered rude to ask someone age, income, or marital status, or to comment frankly on a person’s physical appearance. “You’re so white!” and “You don’t eat much, but you’re chubby” are no different from mentioning that someone is tall or has blue eyes. One woman introduced her daughter to me by saying, “She’s chubby,” and another greeted her friend with, “Wow, you are much fatter since I last saw you!”

With some students at Leganes Elementary School. Can you find the white, chubby American lady?

With some students at Leganes Elementary School. Can you find the white, chubby American lady?

In the spotlight

We have needed to adjust to a constantly shining spotlight. We stand out as foreigners and people are eager to converse, take our picture, and see us perform. Every day we are asked to speak publicly to large groups at the schools we visit. Our audience often insists that we follow our speech with a dance, to an accompaniment of uproarious laughter and copious photographing and videotaping as we muddle our way through. I cringe to think what evidence might have crept onto YouTube! Our hip-hop performance was atrocious, while our Tinikling (traditional Filipino dance of hopping quickly between moving bamboo sticks) continues to improve.

Tinikling dancers at Barotac Nuevo National Comprehensive High School

Tinikling dancers at Barotac Nuevo National Comprehensive High School

Food

As guests, we are offered multiple meals each day, prepared by our wonderful and generous hosts. While unfamiliar, nearly everything I’ve tried has been quite tasty, and sometimes downright delicious.

Typical spread

Typical lunch spread.

Mangos, rice cakes, boku, and other traditional dishes

Mangoes, rice cakes, boku, and other traditional dishes.

Enjoying a refreshing drink of boku (coconut juice)

Enjoying a refreshing drink of boku (coconut juice).

Learning, growing, testing and expanding my comfort zone; Mr. Canzanese would be proud.

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A spirit of community

The theme that pulls together our weekend experiences is community. We saw it everywhere we went: a resilient and proud community of people working together and enjoying life despite enormous challenges. The more time I spend in the Philippines, the more impressed I become with this spirit.

Early Saturday morning, we met volunteers from the school and other local groups who have transformed an abandoned fishpond into the thriving Katunggan mangrove plantation. Volunteers unearth and bag delicate mangrove seedlings to improve their survival chances. Mangroves provide essential wildlife habitat and flood protection. Since 2009, the community has worked tirelessly to protect 82,000 mangroves. Well, make that 82,005 thanks to the efforts of Roma and me!

Transformation from abandoned fishpond to mangrove sanctuary

Transformation from abandoned fishpond to mangrove sanctuary

With volunteers at mangrove bagging

With volunteers at mangrove bagging

The Philippines is the land of festivals, celebrating both religious and non-religious events. Our guides might not have exaggerated when they told us that a festival happens 365 days a year in the Philippines. We arrived in the midst of the Biray Paraw festival in Leganes, held at the Riannes Beach Resort. A paraw is a double outrigger sailboat traditional to the Visayas region. Roma and I experienced biray-biray (enjoyment of sailing) when one of the riggers took us for a ride. We also enjoyed some exercise in the form of sandbar soccer and a dance-off with local performers. We had a great time chatting with the young people attending the festival about school, sports, and music.

Biray Paraw Festival, Leganes

Biray Paraw Festival, Leganes

Paraw sailboats

Paraw sailboats

Dance-off? Yes, please!

Dance-off? Yes, please!

Biray-biray, enjoying the paraw ride

Biray-biray, enjoying the paraw ride

Sandbar soccer

Sandbar soccer

In the afternoon, we attended a BINGO fundraiser sponsored by the Leganes National High School Alumni Association. The association hopes to build an Alumni Hall, the first of its kind in the town, that can be rented out to raise revenue for the school. This community-supported and self-sustaining project exemplifies the Filipino sense of community and ingenuity that we have seen in evidence everywhere. While did not win BINGO, we were happy to contribute to this worthwhile endeavor.

Bingo in the rain

Bingo in the rain, with pebble markers

After BINGO, we had perhaps our most candid conversation so far with educators from the school, aptly held in the faculty room. Roma and I asked more about the challenges they face: lack of resources, family difficulties, crushing poverty (estimated at 95%), nearly obsolete technology, and not enough support for students who are falling through the cracks. Teachers at the school regularly pay out of their own pockets for basic supplies, for food for hungry students, even for photocopies so that they can conduct their lessons. I asked why the overworked teachers don’t transfer to another school with more resources or an easier workload, and the answer was simple: this is their community and they love it. What an inspiring, remarkable, dedicated group.

Ideas are percolating in my brain for what we can do back in the United States to unite ourselves with this wonderful community. How can we make this resilient, spirited community even stronger?

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Tangled up in Iloilo

Welcome banner at Leganes National High School.

Welcome banner at Leganes National High School

After three days in Manila, our TGC cohort split into groups of two and three for our field experiences. Roma and I traveled to Iloilo City, on the island of Panay, where our host Zoilo met us and guided us around the city. Once in town, we visited some historic churches and the old port area.

Iloilo palms

Iloilo palms

At the Iloilo CIty port

At the Iloilo CIty port

Colorful Iloilo

Colorful Iloilo

Iloilo City

Jaro belfry, Iloilo City

Worshipers at the Our Lady of the Candles shrine.

Worshipers at the Our Lady of the Candles shrine

Roma and I were treated like celebrities when we arrived at the high school in the morning. Students greeted us with a parade, complete with marching band and baton twirlers. Never before have I felt so important!

Welcome banner at Leganes National High School.

Welcome banner at Leganes National High School, complete with life-size photos of our faces

After meeting the mayor and posing for approximately 254 photographs, we presented a brief introduction to the US education system and our schools to an audience of Leganes High School staff and students. Dr. J, our Julius West mascot, was a hit!

Dr. J, now famous in the Philippines!

Dr. J, now famous in the Philippines!

Food has definitely been in abundance ever since we arrived in the Philippines. One teacher joked that TGC (Teachers for Global Classrooms) actually stands for Teachers Getting Chubby. Today we were offered two breakfasts, two snacks, and two lunches. I look forward to our two dinners. I may transform into a hobbit, or a blimp, by the time I leave the country.

Local specialties: lumpia, mango, monkfish.

Local specialties: lumpia, mango, grilled bangus, chop suey

Even more food!

Even more food!

In the afternoon we conducted team-building games with a group of 80 students. We tangled up in knots while building our communication and cooperation skills – and our patience. Of course we couldn’t resist jumping in and joining the fun!

All tangled up during our team-building activity at Leganes National High School.

All tangled up during our team-building activity at Leganes National High School

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Departures and arrivals

My colleague and I were discussing what makes us feel that we have truly arrived in a new country. For her, it is having her passport stamped. For me, it is staying overnight. Following either of our measures, we have now arrived in the Philippines.

Passport stamp

Passport stamp

The East Coast contingent of our cohort gathered in Detroit and flew together to Tokyo, where we met the West Coasters, who had traveled together from Portland.

Departing from Detroit

East Coast cohort

The most memorable parts of the flight to Tokyo were the mountains of Alaska and the movies I watched: Selma, Finding Vivian Maier, The Drop, and The Theory of Everything. Twelve hours on a plane allows for quite a lot of movie watching! From Tokyo, we caught a flight to Manila for the final leg of our journey, arriving there over thirty hours after I’d left my house in Maryland.

Arriving in Tokyo

Arriving in Tokyo

I had expected a chaotic scene at the Manila Airport. Here’s a description from Ilustrado by Miguel Syjuco:

The Ninoy Aquino International Airport is your apt introduction to my country. You’ll be struck by the ubiquity of armed guards, enticed by the glossy luxury shops selling duty-free liquor, cigarettes, last-minute presents; you’ll tumble out into a warlike fug – an overcrowded arrival area with desiccated, air-conditioned air, worn linoleum, and creaking baggage carousels; a quintet of blind musicians greets travelers with faves like “La Cucaracha” and “Let It Be”; a larger-than-life, smirking President Fernando V. Estregan welcomes you from a poster taking up the entire wall; a sign declares, “Welcome to the Philippines, the most Christian country in Asia”; beneath it , another, “Beware of pickpockets.” Grasping your possessions tightly, you pass through the gauntlet of taciturn but thorough customs officials before an exit orphans you to the insidious ninety-five degree heat and humidity and the swarming masses of other people’s family members, all of them periscoping necks to stare collectively at you.

Maybe things have changed since that passage was written, since I noticed no armed guards, no signs about pickpockets, no blind musicians. The persicoping family members were there, though, enough for one colleague to declare, “I feel like a zoo animal!”

At the Ninoy Airport

At the Ninoy Airport

Our wonderful hosts Alex and Norberto met us at the airport and shepherded us to the palatial Peninsula Hotel, where we were greeted with warm smiles and delicious drinks.

The lobby of the Peninsula Hotel in Manila.

The lobby of the Peninsula Hotel in Makati.

A great night’s sleep in a comfortable bed prepared me for a day of learning about Philippine culture, customs, and education.

Good morning, Makati!

Good morning, Makati!

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Philippines questions

The past two weeks have focused on the end of the school year and cleaning out my classroom. An abundance of snow days this winter extended our school year to June 15. Once we said our farewells to this year’s students, it was on to Project Move-Out. After twelve years in Room 203, I will be relocating next school year.

Down to just a few essentials

Processed with VSCOcam with k1 preset

Room 203, all cleared out007

Although I will stay at the same school, I will now teach just one class and will spend the rest of my day coordinating our school’s Middle Years Programme (MYP). My new role offers many exciting opportunities to integrate the knowledge and skills I’ve gained over the last year through the Teachers for Global Classrooms Program. I depart for the Philippines in just three days! I will spend three weeks visiting cultural sites and schools in the country, both in Manila and Iloilo City on the island of Panay.

phil_panay

My students in the United States had many questions about life in the Philippines. I invited my students to write down questions and a little bit of information about themselves to share with students in the Philippines.

Questions for Philippines students

We were fortunate to have five experts among us – students who had lived and attended school in the Philippines and were willing to tell us about their experiences and teach us a little Tagalog. We look forward to learning even more about daily life, school, similarities, and differences.

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Preparing for the Philippines

iloilo

Image Source: Facebook

One year ago, I applied for and won a fellowship through the Teachers for Global Classrooms Program , a professional development experience involving an online course, a symposium in Washington DC, and international travel. The online course, completed last fall, challenged me and introduced me to new concepts as I collaborated with colleagues around the United States to learn about global education. At the symposium in the winter, I met those colleagues for the first time. What a group of committed and inspiring, fun-loving and fascinating teachers! We talked and talked: during workshop sessions and sumptuous meals and late-night chats. We exchanged ideas, asked countless questions, and dug deep into what it means to be a teacher in an ever-changing global society.

My cohort, consisting of fourteen teachers, will be traveling to the Philippines in just over two weeks’ time. After a few days in Manila as a group, we will split off into pairs and trios. Along with Roma, a middle-school Spanish teacher from South Carolina, I will travel to Iloilo City on the island of Panay, Western Visayas, to spend ten days with the community of Leganes National High School.

I researched Iloilo City and learned that it once rivaled Manila as an economic powerhouse, but fell on tougher times in more recent years. Although it has a population of over 400,000 people, it is not a common tourist destination. Its lack of prominence means that it’s affordable and can truly offer a picture of real life in the Philippines. I am eager to immerse in the life of a true working city and get to know the culture of another country.

Our gracious host, Zoilo, is a techonology and livelihood skills teacher at Leganes High School. He is helping to arrange our schedule during our field experience, which will consist of some teaching, some observation, and some visiting of local sites.

I have much to do before I travel :Vaccinations! Shopping for gifts and necessities! Lesson plans! At the same time, I am finishing up the school year, preparing for a new position next year, studying for my National Board Exams, and welcoming family visiting from Italy. A most busy and most exciting time.

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Forging Our Own Trail

Tucked into the Wasatch Mountains, Park City drew us from Salt Lake City for the weekend with promises of gorgeous views and vibrant town life. We arrived during the saddle season between winter and summer, when many businesses were closed. Undaunted, we forged our own way.

Saturday morning, we started early and walked straight up from quiet Main Street and into the mountains.

Park City, Utah

Utah

Climbing and climbing

Morning hike with Mike

The trail disappeared and reappeared beneath our feet, becoming mostly snowfields as we climbed higher. We walked past an abandoned silver mine and many closed ski lifts.

Abandoned Silver King mine

Abandoned silver mine

Abandoned silver mine

Park City

Above Park City

Mike hiking near Park City

Finally, up to our shins in snow and completely off-trail, we turned around, and skitter-slid back down the mountain, along steep snowbanks and then through slushy mud.

Mike's death march: mile 3

Park City, Utah

Park City altitude

Lunch at Wasatch Brewpub  and a soak in a hot tub rejuvenated us and our chilly extremities. Though late April is not the most happening time to visit Park City, we found a lively crowd and delicious pizza at Vinto later that evening. In such a short visit and in the offseason, we missed out on many of Park City’s offerings, but we plan to return now that Mike has steady clients in the Salt Lake City area.

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Gullah Culture on the Sea Islands

Penn Center painting

The South Carolina Sea Islands are remarkably scenic: giant live oaks curtained with Spanish moss, shimmering water fringed by marsh grass. They are also home to the unique, rich Gullah culture. The Gullah people are descendants of African slaves who live in the Low Country of Florida, Georgia, and  South Carolina. In these isolated areas, they developed their own language and traditions. Sights of those traditions still pepper the landscape: stands selling seagrass baskets and local produce, tiny churches, cafes serving Gullah cuisine.

Penn Center baskets

Penn School

Penn School was established in 1862 by two Northern women, Laura Towne and Ellen Murray, to educate former slaves. It served as a school until its closing in 1948, and is now Penn Center, a museum and community center. Dr. King visited Penn Center during the 1960s to help local people campaign for civil rights. It’s still active in community outreach, offering camps, classes, meetings, and heritage programs to share the history of the Gullah people and improve life in the local area.

Penn School, St. Helena

Penn School

I was touched reading Laura Towne’s thoughts about the value her students at Penn School placed on their education. The worst thought they could imagine was missing a day of school!

Everywhere pride in the school’s legacy and the long history of the Gullah people was evident – in objects they created and in the stories of a resilient, creative people.

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Savannah smiles

Our Savannah rental was a restored freedman’s cottage from the 1870s, located near Forsyth Park. We loved the light-filled space, decorated with local art and antiques.

Freedman's Cottage, Savannah

Freedman's Cottage, Savannah

Freedman's Cottage, Savannah

Dee of Savannah Bike Tours led us through the highlights of Savannah, from the river to the park, with some Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil locations in the mix.

Bike tour!

Mike with Dee, our tour leader

Stately Savannah

Forsyth fountain

Savannah 010

At Forsyth Fountain

Savannah Gate

Tybee Island, just twenty minutes from Savannah, delighted us with its wide beach and hometown feel – mostly small houses rather than high-rises.

Tybee time

Tybee beach

Tybee pier

Tybee beach

Tybee pavilion

We ate well in Savannah. A favorite was B Matthews Eatery, where we spent a memorable evening devouring luscious seafood dishes.

Mike at B. Matthews